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Top 10 FAQ
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Yes! We started from scratch 8 years ago as a small woodworking operation in a garage within the Heights area. We are not only locally owned, but we are also locally operated directly by the owners of HTX Shutters. We love to be directly involved with our customers! Our owners take a lot of pride in participating in all processes, from measuring to contracting and final installation. By the end of the process, we typically have spent a total of 4+ hours in a home, so we really get to know our customers well. We provide personalized service that is backed by our reputation.
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We have a 5.0 star review rating on Google with 93+ reviews. We also have 5.0 ratings on HomeAdvisor, Houzz and Yelp. We work extremely hard to preserve our reputation by fulfilling promises to customers and delivering quality shutters on-time.
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Yes! When given the opportunity, we are happy to try and compete with any existing quotes/bids that you have received. You can upload a file or photo of your competing quote, and we will respond within 24 hours to try and match or beat it.
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There are cheaper providers in Houston, however we offer superior value by providing the highest level of product quality and service at a reasonable pricepoint. We are competitively priced with other local providers who strive to match our degree of product quality/service. Our customers typically seek good “bang for your buck” by getting a great product at a fair price. Unlike other companies, we provide accurate quotes and rarely change (increase) our prices after they are initially set - many companies charge extras for the types of features that are standard on our shutters. Oftentimes, people assume that plastic/poly shutters will be cheaper than wood, however that is not always the case.
Upload your competing quote to see if we can match or beat it.
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While there is no standard-window size, there are sizes that are more common than others. For second-story windows, a common size is 35” wide x 59” tall, which would cost around $370 - $440 (dependent on volume purchased). For many first-story windows, a common size is 35” wide x 70” tall, which would cost around $440-$540 (dependent on volume purchased). Older homes typically have smaller windows and are cheaper, while newer homes typically have larger windows and are more expensive.
You can check out our current estimated pricing with our Shutter Calculator!
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Yes! There is a lot of misinformation on the internet, which is often perpetuated by shutter companies who exclusively sell poly/plastic shutters. The humidity inside your home is typically 30-50%, whereas the humidity outside is typically 60-90%. The purpose of your Air Conditioning unit is to draw moisture out of the air and dispose of it via a PVC condensate tube that runs outside your home. There is a reason why many homes have wood floors, wood trim, wood stairs, wood cabinets, etc. This is because wood is a suitable product that is dimensionally stable enough to use inside of homes. We even install shutters in garages and attics without issue.
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Wood shutters have three primary advantages over polyvinyl/polywood shutters.
Small Panel Size: Poly shutter panels can only be built to be 24” wide, which means that a standard 36” wide window would require two shutter panels. With wood, we can build a single, larger shutter panel that spans the 36” width. When you resort to a two-panel configuration for poly, you sacrifice about 15% of your view. On small windows this is less functional and can look dated. We focus on building large panels that preserve views.
Custom Colors: Poly shutters typically come in three colors. Our wood shutters all come with custom paint that allows you to choose any shade of white, light beige or light grey. This allows us to perfectly match our shutter paint to your window sill paint. This provides a high-end custom look that helps your shutters blend in with your home’s decor. We’re big believers that matching paint makes shutters truly look custom and built-in to a home.
Weight/Durability: Poly shutters are heavier than their wood counterpart. This can place additional strain on hinges, resulting in shutters that move or sag over time. There are many forms of plastic shutters, which vary from polyvinyl to “polywood”. Their durability ranges based on manufacturer, however they often become brittle over time and are prone to cracking. Oftentimes, plastic/poly shutters can even be hollow - which is an easy recipe for cracking and failure upon and flexing or movement of the shutter or shutter frame.
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Our plantation shutters are all proudly built right here in Houston, Texas. Our manufacturing is located near the intersection of I-10 and Baker Road.
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Our installation estimates/timelines are based upon the time upon four things are accomplished.
Quote Accepted
Detailed Measuring Completed (typically within 5 business days of accepting your quote)
50% Deposit Provided (typically same day as detailed measuring)
Order Confirmation Agreement Completed (typically within 1 day of completing detailed measuring)
Once these four items are complete, it is typically 4-6 weeks from that point until we are back at your house and installing your shutters.
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We offer a limited, lifetime warranty (for the original purchaser of the shutters, non-transferable to future homeowners). Attached is a copy of our warranty. This covers the following:
Louvers will not warp due to sunlight or normal moisture in an air conditioned home
Paint will not crack, peel or show "bleed" through
All panel joins will remain solid and will not crack
Louvers will remain in upright position when opened
Hidden-tilt rods will not pull free from the louvers
For front-tilt rods, one year of coverage for staples pulling free from the louver or tilt rod
Price FAQ
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There are a few cheaper providers in Houston, however we offer superior value by providing the highest level of product quality and service at a reasonable price point. We are competitively priced with other local providers who strive to match our degree of product quality/service. Our customers typically seek good “bang for your buck” by getting a great product at a fair price. Unlike other companies, we provide accurate quotes and rarely change (increase) our prices after they are initially set - many companies charge extras for the types of features that are standard on our shutters. Oftentimes, people assume that plastic/poly shutters will be cheaper than wood, however that is not always the case.
Upload your competing quote to see if we can match or beat it.
Check out our pricing with our Shutter Calculator!
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Yes! When given the opportunity, we are happy to try and compete with any existing quotes/bids that you have received. You can upload your competing quote, and we will respond within 24 hours.
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Our prices depend heavily upon the number of windows - the prices for 4 windows will vary greatly from a home with 40 windows. In general, our prices range from $23/ft to $33/ft, with installation and all taxes/fees included. However, the price can vary up or down based on job location, job complexity and number of windows.
You can check out sample pricing with our Shutter Calculator!
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While there is no standard-window size, there are sizes that are more common than others. For second-story windows, a common size is 35” wide x 59” tall, which would cost around $370 - $440 (dependent on volume purchased). For many first-story windows, a common size is 35” wide x 70” tall, which would cost around $440-$540 (dependent on volume purchased). Older homes typically have smaller windows and are cheaper, while newer homes typically have larger windows and are more expensive.
You can check out our current estimated pricing with our Shutter Calculator!
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Since the size of a home can vary from 1,500 sq. ft to 5,000+ sq. ft (having 5 to 50+ windows), there is no simple answer for the price of a whole home without knowing the quantity of windows. In general, for homes ranging between 2,500 to 3,500 sq. ft (with 20 - 30 windows) you can expect a price between $8000 and $11,000.
You can get a better idea of cost by using our Shutter Calculator!
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As long as additional windows are not added or modified, our quoted price is reflective of the final price, including installation and all taxes/fees. This price does not typically change, unless something was drastically incorrect on the initial quote that was provided. We pride ourselves on providing fast, accurate quotes that we can honor for our customers.
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No, almost all styling options are free and included within our price. This covers louver size, tilt-control style, custom paint color, split-tilt-control, and framing choice. The primary two items that we charge extra for are dark colored paint and bi-folding hinge systems.
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The purpose of the Shutter Calculator is to provide an approximate price range. Our prices vary up/down based on number of windows, job complexity and job location.
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Our shutters are routinely priced cheaper than 3DayBlinds, while being higher quality and delivered faster. You can submit a competing quote and we will do our best to match or beat the quote.
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We require a 50% deposit to initiate your order. This can be payable via check, ACH transfer or Zelle without fees. Use of a debit card or credit card will incur a 2.99% service charge.
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Shutters painted in dark color cost more because of the additional required during the finishing stages. The primary reason is that dark colored shutters often require 3-5 coats of paint to obtain full coverage over a white primer. This is different than white shutters, when painted over a white primer, they only require a single coat. Stained shutters also cost more, as it requires switching over a paint-line from waterbased paint to an oil-based stain. It also takes time to perform the stain color-matching process to whatever sample a customer has provided.
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Temporary shades are not part of our standard offering. If you would like temporary shades, we can typically install them for $35-$40/window (standard window sizes). We take the time to accurately measure and cut each temporary shade to avoid large light gaps in the final product.
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Our most common form of payment is check. We accept personal checks, cashier’s checks, Zelle, ACH transfer (bank details), as well as debit cards and credit cards. Debit/credit cards are assessed a 2.99% service fee to cover our transaction costs.
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At this time, we do not offer any form of financed payments.
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Measure-yourself shutters from online retailers can serve a certain purpose. The available options are not the highest quality from a fit and a durability perspective, but doing it yourself saves a few dollars in the short-term. We do occasionally replace shutters for individuals who first tried to go the measure-yourself route. There are three main difficulties with measure-yourself shutters:
Measurement Accuracy
Options Overload
Installation
Measuring accurately is one of the most important input to shutters fitting correctly. We use a $400 electronic tool for our measuring, which allows us to precisely build our shutters to minimize gaps. Most homeowners only have access to a traditional tape measurer, which can prove difficult to read and measure in one-sixteenths of an inch. When it comes to options, there are so many selections to be made, without a proper explanation of what an in-person shutter expert would describe and recommend. One of the most important options is the frame type. If the wrong frame type is selected, your shutters run the risk of not fitting. Lastly, the installation is a critical part of online shutters. There is a difference between a shutter fitting in a window, and a shutter properly functioning in a window. Window sills are almost never level, so a fair amount of shimming and adjusting is made so that each shutter opens/closes freely. This is usually hard for the average homeowner to perform. To summarize, installing measure-your-own shutters from an online retailer can be successful if you familiarize yourself with options and take your time while measuring and installing.
Styling FAQ
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We do commonly build shutters for doors, however they look best in certain instances. Door shutters require a fair amount of clearance for the moving louvers, resulting in a rather deep frame that is often around 3” thick. The frame depth is least noticeable in scenarios where the door is typically viewed “head-on”, where you rarely view the shutter from side vantage-points. The frame depth is most noticeable in scenarios where you approach and view the door from a perpendicular or side vantage-point. Door shutters do look good, however they are not our favorite application of shutters because of the depth. However, there are not really many better non-shutter alternatives on the marketplace either.
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It is probably a 50/50 split on whether our customers keep their curtains in place. Keep in mind that if you want to keep your curtains, the curtain hardware brackets cannot cover the first 2" border around the top of the window opening. See the link below for examples of shutters with curtains.
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We’re strong believers in building arches with functional louvers all the way up through the curved section. We think this looks more timeless and elegant than the alternate “sunburst/radial” style shutters. We build curved frames that accompany the matching, curved shutter panels.
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There is probably an even mix of customers who do cover the upper transoms with shutters and those who do not. We agree that getting as much natural light as possible is a good thing, so we often tell our customers to leave things open unless they have a direct privacy or light-control need.
CLICK HERE to see photos for “with” and “without” transom shutters.
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Most homes have a mix of windows that are less than 36” in width, as well as over 36”. For windows less than 36” in width, our default is to build one shutter panel. For windows greater than 36” in width, our default is to build two (or more) shutter panels. This means that an average home ends up with a mix of both one-panel and two-panel shutter configurations. Since the size of an individual shutter panel is typically similar across one-panel and two-panel configurations, we find this to retain the best view and be aesthetically pleasing. If you prefer to use a two-panel configuration on a window smaller than 36” in width, then we would encourage you to keep the same two-panel configuration on other shutters of the same size in the same room or line-of-sight.
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“Split-tilt” is the option to separate the louvers on a shutter into a top and a bottom set that operate independently. There is a one control rod on the top set of louvers, and a second control rod on the bottom set of louvers. This is particularly helpful in use cases where you can close the bottom louvers for privacy and keep the top louvers in for sunlight. Common “split-tilt” choices are 50% on top and 50% on bottom, or 34% on top and 66% on bottom. Another common choice is to use no “split-tilt” and have all louvers function on a single control mechanism. A less common option is to place the “split-tilt” location closes to the horizontal window break in a window, which is most commonly 30” up from the bottom.
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There are several considerations when determining “split-tilt” for your windows. Each window should be evaluated on a case-by-case basis, as not every window needs to have “split-tilt”. We commonly use the 34% (top) / 66% (bottom) in bedrooms, where additional privacy is needed. In areas where privacy is less concerning, a 50% (top) / 50% (bottom) split often makes sense. Small windows, front sidelights and doors are common candidates for not applying “split-tilt”. A few of the factors that affect the “split-tilt” decision are: the height of the window, how high the window is off of the ground, privacy needs, sitting vs standing room, height of people in the room, vantage points of neighboring homes and extent of existing privacy from trees/fences. All of these factors combined will inform which “split-tilt” decision is best for each window.
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No, there is no difference in price for selecting “split-tilt” for any of your windows. There also is no difference in price for louver size, a light Sherwin-Williams paint color, tilt rod style or frame selection.
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We use Sherwin-Williams paint, and every order includes a single custom light color (light beiges, light grays, and whites). Dark colored paint costs extra, because of the additional paintwork required. We are believers that “lighter is brighter” when it comes to paint. If you are deciding between two different shades, erring on the light side provides the benefit of lightening the room (instead of darkening). Our favorite paint colors are “High Reflective White” SW7757 and “Extra White” SW7006. These are our typical recommendation because they are clean, bright, cool whites that are refreshing. Keep in mind, cool colored whites do not work for all decors, so sometimes a warmer white is needed. Other favorites of our customers include “Snowbound” SW7004, “Pure White” SW7005, and “Alabaster” SW7008.
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We recommend a low-gloss sheen that is closest to satin. Oftentimes, shutters have a large surface area where a lot of light likes to reflect and bounce off of. This creates a bit of an unneeded glare and is more of a focus-point than it should be. The secondary reason for a low-gloss sheen is that it hides surface imperfections better. This means that the quality of the paint will appear smoother and more defect free than a medium sheen would.
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Our larger louver size (4.5”) is the most popular. The 4.5” louver is used in about 60-65% of our homes, with the smaller 3.5” louver is used in about 35-40% of our homes. The larger 4.5” louver has 33% fewer louvers than the 3.5”, giving it a more unrestricted view. Several places in California have started using 5.5” louvers, as the heights of new windows has continually increased over the years, so the size of louvers has grown as well.
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There are two frame types: inside-mounted and outside-mounted. Inside-mounted frames protrude less from your wall, as part of the frame sits within your window opening. Outside-mount frames mount onto the face of your drywall, so they protrude out further. Inside-mounts do however impede use of tilt-in functionality on a window, while outside-mount frames will allow tilt-in functionality of a window to be maintained. Our preference is inside-mounted frames, as they look a little bit more integrated into a home. Many competitors recommend outside-mounted frames because they are easier to measure for and easier to install (you can oversize dimensions without ramifications). Inside-mounted frames are more difficult to install, however they look a little bit nicer and their are more “profile” choices than outside-mount frames. If tilt-in functionality for cleaning purposes is of utmost importance to a customer, than we will recommend outside-mount frames. This is typically more applicable in two-story homes where the second story windows are more difficult to clean.
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We periodically get requests for black shutters. There are certain difficulties that come with painting darker colored shutters. Given the significant time involved, there is a surcharge applied to all shutter orders with dark colored paint. Homeowners should also be aware that any scratches on a shutter will quickly show the white undertone of the primer beneath. Black shutters also show any form of dust far more easily than any other color. It becomes a constant battle of cleaning to reduce the readily apparent buildup of dust.
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We build windows up to 36” wide as single panels, and shutters up to 72” wide as two-panels. We think that large single panels function and look the best. You lose about 15% of your view every time that you add an additional panel. Some people prefer the aesthetic of more panels, which we are happy to accommodate. For standard window sizes we charge $150/panel if additional panels are desired.
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Our inside-mount frames come in four different varieties, ranging from classic to modern. Our “transitional” frame is geared towards classic elegance. It looks best in homes with either baseboard, door trim or crown molding that has a fair amount of detail. For homes with less traditional decor, our “modern” frame excels at matching homes with baseboard, door trim or crown molding that is simple, but has some level of detail to it. For homes with completely flat baseboard and door trim, we recommend either our “craftsman” or our “southwestern” frame profiles, which both have a flat face and will match well.
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We will primarily use front tilt rods on shutters that are in more historic areas, such as the Heights or Bellaire. The primary reason is that the most common point of failure on a shutter is the front tilt rod. For that reason, we steer most of our customers towards the hidden/rear tilt system, which doesn’t have any issues with maintenance or longevity. Our warranty covers any front tilt rod separation for the first 12 months.
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No, we are big believers that natural light is healthy and necessary. We think that you should only cover windows that have either a privacy or sun-control need. The most common coverage question that we get is regarding the upper transom windows. These may be found above living room or primary bedroom windows, along with the above the front door. Covering these is a personal choice, as you know best whether privacy/sun-control is needed for your lifestyle.
CLICK HERE for photos of covered & uncovered transoms.
Functionality FAQ
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Yes, even if you provide us with dimensions to receive an initial quote, we still will take more accurate final measurements that are needed for our high-precision manufacturing.
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Yes, every shutter is build with a set of hinges on one side. This allows the shutter to be swung open for access to the window. There are a few exceptions. The most common exception is for shutters above a kitchen sink, where the faucet would interfere with the swinging pattern. In these cases, we build a shutter with faux hinges and magnetize the shutter panel in all four corners. This allows the shutter to be lifted in/out for cleaning purposes, which avoiding the issue of the faucet interference. Oftentimes a faucet has a removeable head that can be adjusted when opening/closing the shutter.
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The plumbness of your wall is the biggest dependency for how far our shutters will hinge open. If the wall is constructed perfectly upright, then our shutters will open near 180 degrees to be close to flush with the wall. If the wall is angled, then our shutters will “drift” away from the wall until they find equilibrium.
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One of the options with your shutters is to apply a “split-tilt”, where a top set of louvers operates independently from a bottom set of louvers. One common method is to have 50% of louvers on top and 50% of louvers on the bottom. Another way is to do 34% of louvers on top and 66% of louvers on bottom. We distribute the number of louvers as close to those requested percentages as possible. It isn’t always mathematically possible to 100% exactly match the requested split-tilt percentages, however we try to get as close as possible.
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The full closure position for your shutters is in the “upright” position. This means that the front edge of each louver is pointed upwards. You will see that the top/uppermost louver will rotate into a groove (or a “rabbet”. If you attempt to turn the louvers downwards, they will travel pretty far, however there is no groove/”rabbet” on the bottom, so the movement range is limited or restricted.
CLICK HERE for a picture of the louvers in the limited downwards position.
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We do not have any issues with our plantation shutters sagging. There are two main root causes of panel sagging. The first of which is attributed to the weight of the shutter panel. Plastic/poly/polywood shutters are heavier than wood, which can contribute to sagging. The second factor is the thickness of the hinges. Many manufacturers use hinges that are only 0.05” thick, however we use hinges with steel that is 0.08” thick.
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Yes, plantation shutters can be repainted by a home contractor or an eager DIY enthusiast. We most commonly use a waterbased paint, which can serve as the base for another coat of waterbased paint. Shutters do require experience to lay down a coat of paint that doesn’t have any roughness or overspray. Plantation shutters in particular are difficult to paint because the louvers overlap each other, making it difficult to spray one louver without accidentally also hitting the next louver.
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Wood plantation shutters will last 20+ years when properly cared for. Many people think that plastic plantation shutters will last forever (since plastic doesn’t degrade), however this is not the case. Plastic shutters often become brittle with time, which leads to cracking and breaking.
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Our default recommendation is to build shutter panels up to 36” wide. This is 50% larger than the standard panel width of a plastic/poly/polywood provider, which is 24” wide. With poly shutters, you are often breaking up windows into 2-panels, when you could keep them as 1-panel with our wood shutters. A single panel provides you with a much better view, as you lose ~15% of your view every time you add an additional shutter panel. We will by exception make single shutter panels up to 47” wide. There are two main caveats that come with panels of this size. The first is that the shutter panel may require minor lifting when opening/closing on its hinges. The second is that there may be some slight/minimal waviness in the wood material. This is because wood is more dimensionally unstable as it gets longer, and longer lengths are used when building 47” wide panels. While being a tradeoff, this is not typically noticeable.
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No, our engineered design is stable and does not require the “fixed middle divider rails” that other manufactures required. This fixed middle divider rail is typically a 3” or 4” dead section that separates a top and bottom set of louvers. It does not move, and therefore impedes your view. The one use case where we sometimes recommend a divider rail is when “split-tilt” is used with our front/center tilt rod. It is often nice to have that separation between the upper front/center control rod and the lower front/center control rod, so they do not accidentally clash or collide.
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Our plantation shutters are all proudly built right here in Houston, Texas. Our manufacturing is located near the intersection of I-10 and Baker Road.
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Our plantation shutters intrude on the first 1.25” of your window casing. Many modern security sensors are small enough that they do not interfere. For window cranks, we will create a rectangular cutout in the backside of our frame to accommodate
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We offer a limited, lifetime warranty (for the original purchaser of the shutters, non-transferable to future homeowners). Attached is a copy of our warranty. This covers the following:
Louvers will not warp due to sunlight or normal moisture in an air conditioned home
Paint will not crack, peel or show "bleed" through
All panel joins will remain solid and will not crack
Louvers will remain in upright position when opened
Hidden-tilt rods will not pull free from the louvers
For front-tilt rods, one year of coverage for staples pulling free from the louver or tilt rod
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HTX Shutters acts as a liaison during the warranty repair process. You will deal directly with HTX Shutters, and we will relay information and scheduling information from our manufacturer.
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Our shutters have performed well! We do get an occasional accidental damage call, such as a louver cracking after a football was thrown at it, or we’ve even had people fall into their shutters. There are two common failure points in shutters. The first is the front-tilt rod connection, which uses a pair of two staples to attach each louver to the control rod. If this rod is abused or handled heavily, those staples can “back-out” and cause the louver to be separated from the control rod. We recommend handling your front-tilt shutters with diligence and care to minimize any issues. Our warranty covers this condition for one year after purchase. The second potential failure point is where the louver has a nylon pin in the end of it. If shutters are put through excess stress, a hairline crack can form between the hole of the nylon pin and the topside of the shutter. This causes the louver to separate and hang loose from its adjacent vertical piece. If this happens during routine use, we typically cover this issue through warranty. Issues are most likely to quickly present themselves during the first few weeks, when the shutters are being stressed and used by the homeowner in conditions different than the testing during manufacturing.
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We primarily use two types of hardwood, based on supply chain availability. The specialty species that are best for plantation shutters are basswood and paulownia. They are both lightweight species with good tangential strength and resistance to moisture. You cannot use common lumbers like pine or poplar, as they are too heavy and will cause issues with sagging.
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Any chair rail surrounding a window is trimmed flush and the newly revealed edge is painted to match the shutter.
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Yes, all of our arched shutters have functional louvers through the curve. The one operational difference is that arched shutters will have louvers that turn just past the 90 degree point. Due to the curved part of the arch, the louvers will not turn quite as far as the louvers on a rectangular shutter.
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We install our shutters with 15 gauge finishing nails that are shot through the inner jamb of the shutter frame. We place these nails towards each corner, as well as every 18-24 inches along each side. These nail holes are filled with caulk to conceal them further.
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If your walls are substantially bowed, there is a high likelihood that there will be a gap between your wall and our shutter frames. We typically caulk this gap, whenever there is light leakage that shows between the wall and frame. Caulking works best on slick, smooth walls that are light colored. For darker painted walls that are roughly textured, we may not apply caulking. The resulting caulking can look out of place, as the surface roughness and dark colors make it difficult to deliver a cleanly finished caulking line.
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The short answer is YES, as long as the structural integrity of the shutter is maintained.
The most vulnerable part of any shutter are the louvers. The frame structure of a shutter consists of two 1.1” thick vertical pieces (called “stiles”), as well as two 0.75” thick horizontal pieces (called “rails”). The stiles and rails are thick enough and sturdy enough that they are not typically damaged. Any damage to these would need to be fixed off-site. The louvers, however, are only 0.4” thick, and can be broken with enough force. Luckily, these can be repaired on-site and do not require your shutter to be removed from your home. Our warranty does not cover accidental damages, so there is a small service fee associated with building and installing new replacement louvers.
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The fitment of blackout blinds behind shutters will depend on two main factors. The first factor is the depth of the mounting hardware of the brand of your blackout blinds. The second factor is the depth of your window’s drywall opening. Our most common frame type is a “z-frame”, which takes up approximately 2.5” of depth for a 3.5” louver in the open position, and 3” of depth for a 4.5” louver in the open position. For example, if you have a 5” depth of your window’s drywall opening, you would need to ensure that the hardware of your blackout blinds is less than 2.5” deep for a 3.5” louver or 2” deep for a 4.5” louver. This would allow the blackout blind to operate with the shutter louvers open. If you only need to use the blackout blinds while your shutter louvers are closed, then you would need even less clearance than provided in the above example.
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Yes, our sample shutters reflect how the louvers will open/close in your home. With taller shutters, closing the louvers will typically require a turn of one of the louvers, followed by either a “sweep” or touch at another point of the shutter to get full closure throughout all of the louvers.
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Plantation shutters can make a room very dark. You will always be able to see horizontal lines of light between the individual louvers, however the light does not “bleed" or “flood” into the room.
CLICK HERE for a video of a room darkening demo.
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We all know too well how hot Houston’s heat can be. Adding any form of solid barrier in your window jambs will assist with keeping your home cool. At their thinnest points, shutters are still 0.4” thick of solid wood. This makes them a good contender for insulating, since wood (paper) has been used as blown insulation for attics for many years. We’re still working a science experiment to methodically to quantify the exact benefit, but anecdotally we hear from many customers that the shutters have helped with their electric bill.
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No, smaller louvers do not block out more light than larger louvers. In fact, smaller louvers will result in additional light gaps due to the need to have more louvers to cover a given window size. Each louver will allow a small amount of light through. More gaps = more light!
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No, the degree of privacy across all louver types in comparable.
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Yes! Plantation shutters are solid wood and 0.4” thick at their thinnest point. This lends well to helping block out external noise. We ran an experiment which showed up to a 3 dB (30%) reduction in ambient noise. These figures will of course vary based on your specific environment.
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Hidden-Tilt Rod Shutters:
Simply grab the front/center of a louver and turn it. The rest of the louvers in the set will move along with it.
Front-Tilt Rod Shutters:
We recommend following the same method as the hidden tilt control. Alternatively you can very carefully use the front-tilt rod to maneuver the louvers. Keep in mind that the front-tilt rod is the most commonly repaired area, so we encourage awareness of using it carefully.
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Quite Possibly!
CLICK HERE for a photo of our shutters stopping a train.
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Our inside-mounted frames are 1.125” wide, which is most commonly smaller than the sash (perimeter/border) on a typical window. Some windows have larger sashes than others, however it is not an issue that we typically encounter.
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If you select an inside-mounted frame, this will prevent your windows from being able to tilt-in for cleaning. This is most commonly an issue for homes with a second story, where cleaning upper windows is difficult. In most cases, for first floor homes, people are able to clean the windows from the outside as an alternative. However, if you want to maintain full use of your window’s tilt-in functionality, you will need to select an outside-mounted frame. Outside-mounted frames will not stop your tilt-in functionality from working.
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Wood shutters have three primary advantages over polyvinyl/polywood shutters.
Small Panel Size: Poly shutter panels can only be built to be 24” wide, which means that a standard 36” wide window would require two shutter panels. With wood, we can build a single, larger shutter panel that spans the 36” width. When you resort to a two-panel configuration for poly, you sacrifice about 15% of your view. On small windows this is less functional and can look dated. We focus on building large panels that preserve views.
Custom Colors: Poly shutters typically come in three colors. Our wood shutters all come with custom paint that allows you to choose any shade of white, light beige or light grey. This allows us to perfectly match our shutter paint to your window sill paint. This provides a high-end custom look that helps your shutters blend in with your home’s decor. We’re big believers that matching paint makes shutters truly look custom and built-in to a home.
Weight/Durability: Poly shutters are heavier than their wood counterpart. This can place additional strain on hinges, resulting in shutters that move or sag over time. There are many forms of plastic shutters, which vary from polyvinyl to “polywood”. Their durability ranges based on manufacturer, however they often become brittle over time and are prone to cracking. Oftentimes, plastic/poly shutters can even be hollow - which is an easy recipe for cracking and failure upon and flexing or movement of the shutter or shutter frame.
Installation FAQ
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Your existing blinds or rollers will need to be removed prior to installation. If you do not want to remove them yourself, we can perform our removal service and dispose of your window treatments for $15/window.
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The first step of removing your existing blinds is to raise up the blinds. Next, you will remove any valence that is present at the top/front of your blinds. The valance is attached with plastic clips, and is most commonly removed by lifting upwards. The removal of the valence will provide you access to the hardware on the top left and top right sides of your window casing. You can now lift/pry up the metal flap on the front of the top left hardware and the top right hardware. Doing so will allow you now to carefully pull forward the blind so that it is free of the hardware and can be removed. The remaining hardware is typically attached by two screws on each side (either Phillips head or 1/4” hex), which can be removed with a power drill.
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When removing the hardware for blinds, there are typically two screwholes in the top/left and top/right sections of the window casing. The location of these screwholes will vary depending on how deeply the blinds were installed. In most cases, one of the two screwholes will be covered by our frames. The remaining screwhole is only visible when opening the shutter and peering upwards, or if closely inspecting the shutter from outside the home. These screwholes can be patched/painted by the homeowner after the shutter installation is complete.
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Yes, we will remove and dispose of your old shutters for a small fee (typically $25-45/window). Old shutters present a few issues when uninstalling. The first issue is the that removing the existing nails/screws can cause sheetrock damage through crumbling or cracking. The second issue is the there may be caulking that is adhered to painted walls that cannot be removed without damage to the paint. Lastly, the new shutters may not cover up the exact footprint of your previous shutters, so there may be unpainted areas that require attention. We do our best to mitigate these risks, however they are indeed risks of removing old shutters for new ones.
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Our inside-mounted L-frames have a flat 3/4” face, which is typically lined up about 1/8” from the front of the reveal on you existing window trim. This 1/8” setback allows for a cleaner application of the caulking. For windows with shallow depth and clearance issues, the L-frames are typically partially inset into the existing trim, with the front half of the L-frame protruding forward past your existing window trim.
CLICK HERE to view a photo of an inside mount l-frame location.
CLICK HERE to view a photo of a PARTIAL inside mount l-frame location.
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We do not offer installation services on Saturday or Sunday. We do however offer in-home consultations and detailed measuring sessions on the weekend.
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We do not typically mount directly to drywall, as drywall openings are commonly not very square. If you put a square shutter into a non-square opening, you are presented with “light gaps” of varying sizes all around the shutter. This isn’t very aesthetically appealing, and is the main reason why we do not mount directly to drywall. An additional reason is that without an internal frame, there is less flexibility in leveling a shutter so that it opens and closes properly. This can compromise how functional the opening/closing action is. It also is difficult to install magnets into drywall, as the magnets have a powerful pull and can stress the weaker drywall.
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We have four different timeslots for installation:
9:00-9:30 am
11:00 am - 2:00 PM
12:00 PM - 3:00 PM
1:00 PM - 4:00 PM.
We will reach out to you with a proposed installation timeslot approximately one week prior; we cannot guarantee any particular selection, as we perform 4-5 installations per day and we create a route that makes logistical sense. If the proposed installation timeslot does not work with your schedule, we can work to propose an alternative (albeit at a later date, often the next week).
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Plantation shutter installation time typically varies based on the number of windows/shutters. For small installations (1-6 windows), installation will often take around 1 hour. For medium installations (7-14 windows), installation will often take around 1.5 hours. For larger installations (15+ windows), you can expect around 2 hours. If your shutters require an inside-mounted “L-frame”, you should add an additional 30-45 minutes to the previously mentioned installation times.
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No, we do not shoot nails through the face of a frame under normal circumstances. Many manufacturers use this quick technique, however it results in many small nail holes (every ~24 inches) across the face of your plantation shutter frames. Some manufacturers try to conceal these holes with caulk or filler, however they are oftentimes still visible. Instead of shooting nails through the face of the frame, we shoot our nails inside the “jamb”, which is the interior surface of your window opening (perpendicular to the wall). We fill all nail holes with caulking, so that even when you open up your shutters you are presented with a clean, finished look.
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Of course! We knew nothing about building shutters 8 years ago when we started in a garage with a handful of power tools. However, there were many lessons learned that have gotten us to the level of quality production today. We have spoken with many seasoned woodworkers who have built plantation shutters. Most of them deemed the task to be one of the most difficult projects they have tackled. To produce plantation shutters you will benefit most by having the following tools:
Compound miter saw
Tablesaw
High quality blades (90+ teeth/inch, we prefer Forrest blades)
Joinery system (we prefer Festool Domino)
Jointer
Planer
Drill press
HVLP spray system
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We do not typically separate an order into multiple installations. This keeps cost down for the customer and prevents us from having to raise our prices to cover additional labor. For very large orders (30+ windows), we can evaluate on a case-by-case basis whether an early delivery of some shutters is possible.
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No, we only install shutters that are built by our company. We feel that even when shutters from online are properly installed, we cannot guarantee the proper fit and finish that is desired.
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We have two main options when it comes to dealing with kitchen tile (commonly found around kitchen sink windows). Our preferred method is to build out a spacer on the back of our frames, which nicely wraps around the tile and provides a polished look. If you have 3/8” thick tile, then we build extra 3/8” of depth around our frame perimeter to match. Our lesser preferred option is the notch the frame. This is typically done in examples where extremely thick (0.75”) surrounds the window. The lower left and lower right frame legs are notched around the existing tile.
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Oftentimes the shutters above a kitchen sink, encounter a faucet would interfere with the swinging pattern. In these cases, we build a shutter with faux hinges and magnetize the shutter panel in all four corners. This allows the shutter to be lifted in/out for cleaning purposes, which avoiding the issue of the faucet interference. Oftentimes a faucet has a removeable head that can be adjusted when opening/closing the shutter.
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We handle these requests on a case-by-case basis. In some situations we may be able un-install and re-install your shutters, however that will require multiple installation trips. There would be a fee associated with the work.
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Our goal for every installation is to show up within the designated timeslot that has been provided. In the event that our installation timeline is prolonged, we will reach out and make you aware. We perform 5 installations per day, however we try our best to accurately estimate our arrivals. All of our crew members will be wearing shoe covers, to respect the cleanliness of your home. We will first perform a quick walk through of the home, so that each team member can view the windows and scope of work. After the walkthrough, our team will begin bringing individual shutters inside and placing them by their respective windows. While two team members work on unloading, the third team member (Omar) will begin to install your shutters into place. After the two team members unload, they will proceed to perform the finishing work on each shutter. This consists of caulking between the frame bottom and window sill, as well as caulking all nail holes on the interior of the frame trim. You can expect team members to use handheld vacuums to clean up the work areas throughout your home. Once all windows are complete, we will perform a final walkthrough with you to describe shutter operations and ensure everything looks good. The final payment will be due once the walkthrough is complete.
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There typically is no difference between the order time for 1 shutter or the order time for 50 shutters. Our sequential manufacturing queue has sufficient capacity that we are able to handle all sizes without compromising our speedy delivery times.
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Our work primarily focuses on residential buildings. We have worked on everything from manufactured homes to penthouse suites. That being said, our most common home types are 2,500 - 4,000 square foot homes. Occasionally we rise to the challenge and do unique builds, such as large senior care facilities!
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Measure-yourself shutters from online retailers can serve a certain purpose. The available options are not the highest quality from a fit and a durability perspective, but doing it yourself saves a few dollars in the short-term. We do occasionally replace shutters for individuals who first tried to go the measure-yourself route. There are three main difficulties with measure-yourself shutters:
Measurement Accuracy
Options Overload
Installation
Measuring accurately is one of the most important input to shutters fitting correctly. We use a $400 electronic tool for our measuring, which allows us to precisely build our shutters to minimize gaps. Most homeowners only have access to a traditional tape measurer, which can prove difficult to read and measure in one-sixteenths of an inch. When it comes to options, there are so many selections to be made, without a proper explanation of what an in-person shutter expert would describe and recommend for proper fit and appearance. One of the most important options is the frame type. If the wrong frame type is selected, your shutters run the risk of not fitting. Lastly, the installation is a critical part of online shutters. There is a difference between a shutter fitting in a window, and a shutter properly functioning in a window. Window sills are almost never level, so a fair amount of shimming and adjusting is made so that each shutter opens/closes freely. This is usually hard for the average homeowner to perform. To summarize, installing measure-your-own shutters from an online retailer can be successful if you familiarize yourself with options and take your time while measuring and installing.
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Many of our customers do two rounds of shutter orders, some customers do three rounds, and we’ve even had customers do four! We’re happy to accommodate as many rounds as you are comfortable with. Our standard delivery/installation fee is $299, which covers the time for transporting and installing your shutters. That fee applies to each round of shutters purchased.
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We routinely put shutters into bathroom with any concern. Under normal use, with ventilation fans, your shutters will function properly in your bathroom. The typical humidity within a Houston home is between 30% and 50%, which typically rises by 10-15% after running a hot shower. These levels are acceptable for use with plantation shutters.
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The depth of a window casing will place limitations on what louver size can be used. Most new homes have deep window casings that will allow for use of 2.5”, 3.5” or 4.5” louvers. Many of the homes in the Heights, West University and Bellaire have shallower window casings that will restrict louver size to either 2.5” or 3.5”.
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We recommend ordering new windows prior to shutters. The main reason is that 50% of window companies install windows from the outside of your home, whereas 50% of window companies install windows from inside your home. If you install shutters first, you may be limited to selecting a window company that will install your new windows from outside of the home. Our outside-mount frame option may be compatible with window companies that install from the inside. You would need to confirm the compatibility with your window company of choice.
Company FAQ
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Yes! We started from scratch 8 years ago as a small woodworking operation in a garage within the Heights area. We are not only locally owned, but we are also locally operated directly by the owners of HTX Shutters. We love to be directly involved with our customers! Our owners take a lot of pride in participating in all processes, from measuring to contracting and final installation. By the end of the process, we typically have spent a total of 4+ hours in a home, so we really get to know our customers well. We provide personalized service that is backed by our reputation.
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We have a 5.0 star review rating on Google with 93+ reviews. We also have 5.0 ratings on HomeAdvisor, Houzz and Yelp. We work extremely hard to preserve our reputation by fulfilling promises to customers and delivering quality shutters on-time.
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Jason and Greg started their first job together at age 15 as ice cream scoopers in Spartanburg, South Carolina. Despite going to colleges in different states, both Jason and Greg ended up in Houston in 2015. Jason and Josh both studied engineering at Virginia Tech before they ended up in Houston. There’s an adage about starting businesses together with friends, however we’ve successfully navigated for 8 years without any signficant issues. Here’s to 8 more years!
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Yes! We are proud to be intimately involved with our business. We perform all aspects, from administrative work to measurings and installations.
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No, HTX Shutters is not a franchise. We were independently founded in Jason’s garage 8 years ago, with the goal of building a shutter company with a better buying experience. We have created the entirety of HTX’s “brand” and reputation from scratch.
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For the first 5 years, our company operated as a five-person team that manufactured and installed every one of our shutters. This unique experience allowed us to understand how to design and build a top quality shutter. Our biggest issue was manufacturing capacity. Limited by our production capacity of 1,000 shutters per year, we sought out a partnership to allow us to grow. Three years ago, we interviewed 10 other local shutter manufacturers in Houston, to find a manufacturer that would produce our particular shutter design to our specifications. We selected a partner based on their ability to maintain our high quality standards, while exclusively producing our design. Our manufacturer has the track record of producing shutters for 20,000 homes over the past 22 years. This gave us confidence that our shutters would not only be built to our standards, but also installed and warrantied as well.
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We’re operating in our 8th year of bringing a better plantation shutter buying process to Houston homeowners. We help around 200 homeowners a year, which is relatively small in the scale of the Houston home market. There are many (30+) other alternate plantation shutter companies, however we believe that our work (and our reviews) separate us from the rest. We hope you give us the opportunity to show you!
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Though we have been in business for 8 years, there’s no certain way to guarantee longevity of any business. Our passion for shutters is as strong as ever, and we plan to continue that for many years to come. You can probably find peace-of-mid with the fact that our manufacturer has been in business for 22 years, and plans for many more.
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We compete with around 40 plantation shutter companies in the Houston area. We think that we provide the best value through a balance of quality and pricepoint. Here are some of our competitors:
Ultimate Shutters of America
LJ Custom Shutters
Signature Shutters of Houston
Custom Built Shutters Shop
Blind Designs & Shutters
Sisters Shutters
Shutter Source
Katy Plantations
H-Town Blinds
Katy's Best Custom Shutters & Blinds
S&S Shutters
Houston Shutter Center
Houston Wholesale Blinds & Shutters
Houston Shade & Shutter Co
Woodlands Shutters & Blinds
Sunburst Shutters
Katy Blinds & Shutters
Houston Shade & Shutter Co
Texas Shutters Corp
Houston Blinds For Less
Creative Blinds
The Shade Shop
Shutter Up
Texas Shutter Company
Texas Shutter LLC
Accent Shutter
Texas Handcrafted Shutters
Texas Star Shutters and Blinds
Memorial Shutters
Woodlands Shutters n' Shades
Starlite Blinds & Shutters
Htown Blinds
Under The Texas Sun Window Fashions
Custom Shutter Guru
Inhouse Design Shutters
A Shade Above Texas
Budget Blinds of Cypress
Bottom Dollar Blinds
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Probably! We have recently worked in the following zip codes: 75078, 77005, 77007, 77008, 77013, 77019, 77022, 77024, 77027, 77031, 77036, 77040, 77041, 77042, 77043, 77044, 77047, 77053, 77055, 77057, 77059, 77064, 77069, 77070, 77075, 77077, 77079, 77080, 77084, 77090, 77093, 77094, 77095, 77096, 77098, 77302, 77304, 77339, 77345, 77346, 77354, 77355, 77362, 77365, 77372, 77373, 77377, 77378, 77379, 77381, 77382, 77384, 77386, 77388, 77389, 77406, 77423, 77429, 77433, 77434, 77437, 77441, 77449, 77450, 77459, 77469, 77477, 77479, 77493, 77494, 77546, 77550, 77573, 77578, 77581, 77583, 77584, and 77979
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Maybe! Give us a call at (832) 839-1235 or email at hello@htxshutters.com if you want to get in touch with us.